On our map. We haven't walked through the door yet — here's why it's on the list.
Pizzeria opened by Stefano Faita and Michele Forgione (Impasto) in the storefront next door, eight months after the space came up — GEMA is an acronym for their four children, Giovanni, Emilia, Massimo and Anna. Chef Anthony Di Iorio executes pizzaiolo Forgione's recipes in a Zébulon Perron-designed room steps from Jean-Talon Market.
Thirteen pizzas on the regular menu plus a monthly pie from a guest chef; house-cured meats, a Hawaiian pizza made with roasted-then-frozen pineapple, and soft-serve ice cream ranked among the city's best.
Gema is on the Regulars map — spotted, not yet visited. Our guides are written on foot, door by door, and no one pays to appear: when we walk through the door, this note will become a portrait. No points. No coupons. Standing is earned.