On our map. We haven't walked through the door yet — here's why it's on the list.
A Kabyle table at the corner of de Bullion and Villeneuve, associated since its early days with chef Mohand Yahiaoui, who came from Algeria and learned Berber cooking from his mother. The room is decorated and scored to match.
Couscous holds the centre of the menu, in eight variations according to The Main and a dozen according to Voir, with méchoui for groups, brik à l'oeuf and grilled sardines to start, and a vine-covered back terrace in season. You bring your own wine. The house's public page carries the year 1985, and the press describes it as an address running for close to four decades.
Rites Berbères is on the Regulars map — noted, not yet visited. Our guides are written on foot, door by door, and nobody pays to be in them. Whether the house takes part in Regulars is still to be confirmed. No points, no coupons — standing is earned.