On our map. We haven't walked through the door yet — here's why it's on the list.
A contemporary French table at the top of Saint-Denis, bring-your-own-wine, putting local and organic produce forward.
The card holds veal kidneys in a mustard and confit-garlic crust with smoked blue cheese cream, and beef cheek braised in port and guajillo pepper. The room seats about fifty, twenty of them on the terrace, and the house is closed Sunday through Tuesday.
Le Bleu Raisin is on the Regulars map — noted, not yet visited. Our guides are written on foot, door by door, and nobody pays to be in them. Whether the house takes part in Regulars is still to be confirmed. No points, no coupons — standing is earned.