On our map. We haven't walked through the door yet — here's why it's on the list.
One of the city's first Portuguese restaurants, founded in 1974 by Mr. Doval at the corner of Marie-Anne and de Bullion, and run today by Carlos Soares and Joao Goncalves.
The décor has barely moved since opening, and the room splits between a quiet front and a livelier back, sixty to eighty seats in all. Charcoal-grilled Portuguese chicken is what gets cited most, with grilled sardines, lamb chops, grilled squid and shrimp croquettes. Carlos, twenty-two years in the house, says what he likes most is the regular clientele they have had for years.
Chez Doval is on the Regulars map — noted, not yet visited. Our guides are written on foot, door by door, and nobody pays to be in them. Whether the house takes part in Regulars is still to be confirmed. No points, no coupons — standing is earned.